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Go Up to Go Down
Pamir Highway

In order to go down in altitude we had to first travel through the mountain passes you see in the background. It was a considerable climb to over 15,000 feet.

Joe and I loaded Will in the car and began to put everything back into and on the car.  This was a very difficult task after little sleep, frozen feet (we could not feel them at all), and an altitude of over 4000 meters.  The most difficult for me was collecting the container of water.  It had washed down the river to a sand bar.  I considered leaving it, but I did not want to risk us running out of water.  I hiked through the icy water and sharp rocks to the huge container which had frozen overnight.  I chugged it back, tossing it into the back of the car and after about an hour and a half packing (which would normally be about 20 minutes) we drove onwards towards Karakul and Murgab.

As our feet began to thaw, Joe and I realized that we had bruised and cut them up pretty badly.  It took hours to even begin to feel them, but as they did thaw they hurt terribly.

To be able to drop in altitude, we first had to dive through higher mountain passes of over 15,000 feet–the height of the highest mountain in Europe, Mont Blanc.  This meant we had to ascend quickly–something that was becoming more and more trying on our bodies and worried me terribly about Will’s condition.

Head towards Afghanistan for safety?

Something I never expected to hear was someone recommending we get as close to Afghanistan as possible–just to be more safe.  Today we received an update from the Rally officials that started with this:

Hi there folks,
Got some breaking news on Taj . Just an important security update basically to do with militants on the route around the Garm area and army operations in the area…

They go on to recommend a route change.  This change moves us out of the militant area and extends our route along the Afghan border.  A great deal of the Pamir Highway we are going to take skirts the Afghan border, but we had planned on heading inland from the border as soon as practical.  I guess practical was replaced by non-militant.  This keeps it interesting if nothing else.

It was good for a reality check on the potential dangers involved driving through this region of the world.  Bart, maybe you were onto something.

The map of the proposed route has been updated.  It now shows Ukraine, Russia, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan, as well as this most recent route change.  Fun times in Central Asia.

The Intended Route

This has changed about 10 times now.  Here are some challenges so far:

  • Scares of the Swine Flu closed Turkmenistan as an option.
  • The Uzbekistan government wouldn’t let the Brits get a double-entry visa (I guess they only wanted to see them once).
  • Azerbaijan and Russia can’t decide if they will have open borders or not.
  • The ferry captain across the Caspian is not sure when or if he will be sailing.
  • Iran won’t let me enter without a full-time escort.

So here is the route as it stands right now:

  1. England
  2. France
  3. Belgium
  4. Germany
  5. Czech Republic
  6. Slovakia
  7. Hungary
  8. Ukraine
  9. Russia
  10. Kazakhstan
  11. Kyrgyzstan
  12. Tajikistan
  13. Kyrgyzstan
  14. Kazakhstan
  15. Russia
  16. Ukraine
  17. Moldova
  18. Romania
  19. Bulgaria
  20. Turkey
  21. Greece
  22. Albania
  23. Montenegro
  24. Bosnia and Herzegovina
  25. Croatia
  26. Slovenia
  27. Italy
  28. Switzerland

We will add or subtract (more likely subtract) countries and stops depending on breakdowns, robberies, jail time, and romantic interludes.  Yeah, it will probably not be the last.   But who knows–I might come home with a Russian bride…