Tag-Archive for » river crossing «

Photos & Maps

Thank you for visiting my blog!

If you are visiting for the first time, the Roof of the World Rally blogs begin at the bottom of http://thetravelmur.com/page/9/ and read up from the bottom.  You can view the subsequent days by clicking the “Next Entries>>” link at the bottom of each page.

Highlights of what have been blogged include:

  • death warnings at sendoff
  • driving where Germans only walk
  • our first (of many) shakedown by police
  • finding a backwards solution to a breakdown in Kazakhstan
  • attacked in Kyrgyzstan
  • a river runs through it–the car, that is
  • near-death experience by altitude sickness
  • creative ways to pay for a Tajik hospital stay
  • unwelcome to most popular in a Pamiri village

Stories soon to come:

  • twice a fugitive
  • sleeping in minefields
  • driving through waterfalls
  • the most treacherous roads of the journey
  • the most treacherous non-roads of the journey
  • the benefits of bad tuna
  • bridges that shouldn’t be
  • a conversation with the KGB
  • the finish line
  • the vodka line
  • the toilet line
  • Tajiki departure
  • European departure

Videos

Videos continue to be uploaded and are listed in the column to the left or by clicking here:  VIDEOS

Maps

The map of our drive has been updated here:  MAP

Photos

Photos continue to be uploaded from the trip and can be viewed by clicking the photo below.

Roof of the World Rally 2009


Courtesy of the Chinese Government
River behind

The view from the "other" side of the river. Notice the Chinese border fence to the right. This is where they cut the wire to pull us out.

A couple more hours went by when two jeeps pulled up filled with people.  They all jumped out, some conversations between them went on, and one drove away leaving a jeep packed with eight people to help.  They quickly went to work trying to get us out.  First by pushing the car (a pointless move since it was buried so deep), and next by pulling it with the Jeep.  Joe had brought an old ratchet strap that he felt would work in place of a tow strap.  Will and I wondered if it would work, but Joe was very confident in its strength.  Sadly Will and I were right.  It broke repeatedly from the strain.  We moved on to ropes, which quickly snapped in half as well.  Nothing seemed to be working.

Three of the guys then wandered off to the north, following the edge of the river.  A few minutes later they came back with a long piece of large-gauge wire.  Wire cut from the border fence with China only yards away.  Joe and I looked at each other at first with horror—we didn’t think the Chinese government would be happy about that—then with excitement as we realized that it would work perfectly.

They wired it up between our car and theirs, but going the wrong direction.  Joe and I tried to explain that we had to cross the river, but they insisted on backing us up instead.  Who were we to complain?  We needed help and they were there helping.

They revved their engine, and yanked the car out, pulling it on the original bank.  Everyone cheered with excitement and we celebrated by handing out candies.  Now how do we get to the other side?  One of the guys jumped into the car and drove right back into the river, but this time drove inside the river downstream.  The water levels were lower, so there were many sandbars to drive along.  He drove on until all at once he turned and shot up the hill.  Betty struggled, but finally made it.  In the end Betty sacrificed the right side of her bumper, a mud flap, a rim, and the front-right fog light.

We tried to explain that we were in a hurry to get Will to safety, but the guys began joy-riding the car up and down the road.  We finally got them to give her back when we offered to give them a full can of fuel and some bags of tea in exchange for their help.  That was a good $30 pay day, not to mention fuel is a scarce commodity difficult to come by in these parts.  We shook hands and away they went—with our fuel AND with our funnel.

SPOT Check from Kernow Krew. We arrived at our next stop. ESN:0-7496576 Latitude:39.2296 Longitude:73.4256 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/21/2009 07:05:41 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=39.2296,73.4256&ll=39.2296,73.4256&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Our Good Samaritan?
Tire

The tire on the low-side of the river. This was the only tire that remained exposed. The others were covered nearly to their tops and the doors could not be opened. Notice the ice around the car.

Around 5AM a car pulled up.  By then the side of the car facing the current had been buried almost to the top of the tires in gravel and sand (something that helped to keep me awake all night with the constant banging on the side by the stones).  The guy in the car looked at our situation and shook his head.  He tried to explain that we could rent a jeep in the next town, but we would have to pay him $50 to drive us there, $100 to rent the jeep, and a full tank of fuel which would be another $60.

We evaluated our options, and the money was not the issue.  The problem was it would take a couple hours to drive with him to the town, probably an hour to negotiate getting the jeep and fuel (nothing works quickly in this part of the world), and another two hours to return.  That would be a six hour venture.  In that time Joe and I figured we would see a few jeeps or trucks driving through that could pull us out immediately.  Since time was our biggest factor, we passed on the option, thanked him, and sent him on his way.  Back into the car we went to wait.

I noticed while sitting there that the water levels had gone down more outside.  I began bailing out the water and it was no longer rushing back in.  The silt from the river had sealed most of the gaps in the door.  I was able to get the water down to a few inches which helped with the temperature in the car and with being able to move around without getting as wet.

Bridge? What Bridge?
Pamir Highway views

View from the Pamir Highway just after the border post entering Tajikistan from Kyrgyzstan.

About 10 minutes down the road we stopped to take a quick pee break. Will was clearly getting more and more lethargic. It was not just the stomach flu. He was suffering from altitude sickness—a very serious issue that we had been repeatedly warned to watch for by Sophie from the Rally. The only solution was to get to a lower altitude, so we drove as quickly as broken Betty would allow.  If we didn’t act quickly enough, Will could suffer permanent brain damage or death.

As we were driving, a large truck going the other direction pulled up. A guy jumped out and went to Joe’s window. “Roll down the window” he said in very good English. “No,” Joe responded, remembering Osh. “OK,” he began to yell, “the bridge is gone, you must drive down the river 500 meters to cross. You will not be able to cross in that otherwise.” “Thanks,” Joe yelled through his still-closed window.

They drove off and we proceeded forward. We got to the river and sure enough, no bridge. The water was running swiftly and you could not see the bottom in most places. The bank had a ramp down to the river with one up on the other side, but the flow was obviously too swift to cross.

Waiting We drove along the river bank as recommended for 500, 600, even 700 meters and nothing. We saw plenty of places where we could get into the river, but no places where we could get OUT of the river. We drove back to the road and began to assess our options. We decided our best course of action was to wait to see where someone else crossed and follow them. So we got comfortable and nestled in for the wait.

SPOT Check from Kernow Krew. We arrived at our next stop. ESN:0-7496576 Latitude:39.2296 Longitude:73.4256 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/21/2009 07:05:41 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=39.2296,73.4256&ll=39.2296,73.4256&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1