An old man with a typical Pamiri hat. Click the image to see a better view of him.

Here is a quick explanation of the GBAO:

In 1992 a bloody civil war erupted in Tajikistan when a large segment of the country tried to declare independence and break away from the nation.  Representing nearly half of the area, but only 3% of the population, the Gorno-Badakhshan regional government ultimately backed down when it was agreed that the area would remain somewhat independent as the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province (known as the GBAO).

The remnants of this is a separation between the people of the country, an isolated culture, and active landmines dotted across the countryside, particularly along the Pamir Highway near the Afghanistan border.  For us to travel through the GBAO we were required to get special permission and an additional stamp in our passports that acts as a visa into the area.  Although the area has its own autonomous rule, many Tajikistan government operated checkpoints run the length of the Pamir Highway, requiring us to stop, have our passports checked, and register with each post along the route.