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If you are visiting for the first time, the Roof of the World Rally blogs begin at the bottom of http://thetravelmur.com/page/9/ and read up from the bottom.  You can view the subsequent days by clicking the “Next Entries>>” link at the bottom of each page.

Highlights of what have been blogged include:

  • death warnings at sendoff
  • driving where Germans only walk
  • our first (of many) shakedown by police
  • finding a backwards solution to a breakdown in Kazakhstan
  • attacked in Kyrgyzstan
  • a river runs through it–the car, that is
  • near-death experience by altitude sickness
  • creative ways to pay for a Tajik hospital stay
  • unwelcome to most popular in a Pamiri village

Stories soon to come:

  • twice a fugitive
  • sleeping in minefields
  • driving through waterfalls
  • the most treacherous roads of the journey
  • the most treacherous non-roads of the journey
  • the benefits of bad tuna
  • bridges that shouldn’t be
  • a conversation with the KGB
  • the finish line
  • the vodka line
  • the toilet line
  • Tajiki departure
  • European departure

Videos

Videos continue to be uploaded and are listed in the column to the left or by clicking here:  VIDEOS

Maps

The map of our drive has been updated here:  MAP

Photos

Photos continue to be uploaded from the trip and can be viewed by clicking the photo below.

Roof of the World Rally 2009


Hospital Bills

I waited an hour, making the biggest fuss I could to get a car, a doctor, anything.  Finally I hear Joe pull up in Betty.  We grabbed Will and took him to the car.  We rushed to META, where they took a quick glance at Will and said, “you have to go down the mountain.”  They felt because of Will’s severe condition, the chamber would only temporarily help and the only real fix was to get him to a lower altitude as soon as possible.

“Hurry along, but go back to the hospital and ask for aspirin,” they said.  They explained that the blood-thinning of the aspirin would help ease him back as we descended.  “And don’t let him sleep,” they shouted at the car as we drove off.

We returned to the hospital and I asked the nurse for aspirin.  She shook her head.  They had no aspirin.  They were a hospital and they had no aspirin.  The nurse then began to explain that the cost of the two shots.  About 40 cents total.  Because I didn’t have any of the local currency, I tried to pay with a US dollar bill.  She gave me the “what am I going to do with that?” look and shook her head.

I went to the car, grabbed a handful of tea bags, and walked back in.  I placed them in her hands, she gave them a look, and then nodded.  Deal.  Two mystery pills and two mystery shots in the ass for a handful of tea bags from our sponsor.  That is a good deal indeed.

Ambulance Service

About an hour went by and the nurse woke me.  She asked how I was doing and I said I was feeling a little better.  Then she motioned to Will.  I tried to wake him to find out how he was doing.  “Will, are you better, worse, or the same?”  No response.  “WILL—LOOK AT ME BUDDY!”  His eyes opened.  “ARE YOU BETTER, WORSE, OR THE SAME?”  His eyes closed.  I became very worried at this point.

“META” I began insisting, “META.”  The nurse shrugged her shoulders.  “Mohammed Ali,” I said.  She came back with Ali.  I explained that Will needed to get to META immediately.  “Are you going to still stay at our house tonight?” Ali asked.  “I don’t know.  I don’t care.  Yes.  Just find a way to get Will to META!”  Joe had not returned from the welder and I was at the mercy of a guy who was more interested in renting a room for the evening than Will’s wellbeing.

“Bring the ambulance” I insisted.  “The ambulance has already moved to the next town,” he answered.  Apparently the ambulance spends only a short period of time in each city.  “Find me a car,” I told him.  “It will cost money to drive,” he said.  “I don’t care, we have to go now!”  “Ok, I will get a car, but it will take an hour.”  How can it take an hour to get a car?  I don’t like this at all.

Ali walked off to arrange the mystery hour car and I asked the nurse to get the doctor.  She nodded, but just sat there.  “Doctor, doctor,” I said.  She pointed to her watch.  He would be back in half an hour.  In the mean time Will is becoming less and less responsive.

Mystery Shots

Some time passed, and I woke to the doctor checking Will.  They began to ask questions (mostly with their hands) about his situation.  I tried to explain that he had vomited.  The doctor makes a motion with his hands.  No, Will didn’t have diarrhea.  He made a vomit motion and began to point to colors in the room.  I pointed to the color closest to what I remembered the vomit being.  He points to the clock.  I point to the time we ascended and made a driving uphill motion, pointed to the vomit time and made a vomit motion, acted as if I passed out and pointed to when Will became incoherent.  Will was contributing a little during this time, but the poor guy could barely keep his eyes open.

I took the doctors hand and pressed it against Will’s forehead.  “Temperature” I said.  “Ah, temperature,” he repeated.  He spoke to the nurse who returned with a thermometer.  At that point I became very worried with the professional practices of the hospital.  I can’t go to the doctor with a hangnail without getting my temperature checked.  How can they assess Will’s condition and not even take his temp?  The doctor then left, promising to return later.

Two asses

Ok, so this photo doesn't exactly match the blog, but I have no photos from inside the hospital. Somehow the two asses in the photo seemed to fit the shot story though.

Sure enough Will had a high temp.  The nurse went to the medical kit and pulled out a needle.  Filling it with a mystery elixir, she walked over to Will.  “Will, they need to give you a shot,” I told him.  Will began to roll up his sleeve.  The nurses quickly said, “Niet,” and pointed to Will’s butt.  The shot wasn’t going in the arm.  I laughed and told him, “roll over buddy.”  The nurses giggled as they stuck him in his cheek.

I then went back to bed and started to shiver.  The nurses talked with each other and walked over with the thermometer.  It was my turn to get my temperature checked.  The nurse nodded when she took out the thermometer, and I asked to see it.  102.  A high fever.  The two nurses chatted, then laughed loudly as they motioned for me to roll over.  My turn to get the mystery shot in the butt.

I later found out from the director of the charity that it was likely only a vitamin shot and nothing else.  Not exactly the best cure known to modern medicine.

This is the hospital?

We arrived at a three-story whitewashed building, which gave me hope on the condition and supplies in the hospital.  Then we carried Will in.  It was not all the hospital.  It was mostly an alcohol rehab facility.  The “hospital” was only a 20 foot by 30 foot room inside the rehab unit.  Fitted with three beds (actually boxes with rugs over them), a desk and a safe, the hospital looked like little more than a really bad youth hostel.

The military doctor began to assess the situation with Will as we waited for the regular doctor to arrive.  The nurse went into the safe and pulled out what looked like an old World War II medic’s kit—about the size of a fishing tackle box.  That was the extent of their medical supplies at this hospital.  The opened a bottle and pulled out a strange yellow pill for Will to take.  Will took it as they laid him down on the bed.

That is when I realized how bad I actually was.  The stomach flu had turned and although I didn’t feel sick to my stomach, I was clearly ill.  I had a tight chest which burnt when I breathed and ached all over.  I must have been on an adrenaline high trying to get out of the river and driving down to Murgab.  The doctor gave me the mystery yellow pill and had me lay down as well.

I asked Joe to drive the doctor back to wherever he was going and to find a mechanic to fix the car. She was not in good shape before and the river could not have been good for her.  Will and I were stuck resting while we waited for the hospital doctor to return from wherever he was.  I laid down and immediately fell into a deep sleep.